How to read surf forecasts?

09Aug 2024 by olasurfmaroc
Reading surf forecasts is essential to maximizing your time in the water and ensuring optimal surf sessions. Here’s a guide to understanding the key elements of surf forecasts:

How to read surf forecasts?

Reading surf forecasts is essential to maximizing your time in the water and ensuring optimal surf sessions. Here’s a guide to understanding the key elements of surf forecasts:

1. Wave Height

Wave height is one of the most important factors to consider. It is measured in feet or meters and indicates the size of the waves you can expect. Generally:

  • 0.5 to 1 meter (1.5 to 3 feet): Ideal for beginners.
  • 1 to 2 meters (3 to 6 feet): Perfect for intermediate surfers.
  • Over 2 meters (6 feet and above): Suitable for advanced surfers.

What to know: Wave height doesn’t always correspond to the size of the waves you’ll see at the spot, as other factors like swell period and wind direction also play a role.

2. Swell Period

The swell period is the time (in seconds) between successive waves. It indicates the power of the waves:

  • Less than 8 seconds: Short and choppy waves.
  • 8 to 12 seconds: Average conditions with more organized waves.
  • 12 seconds and above: Powerful, well-formed waves, ideal for surfing.

What to know: A longer period means the waves have traveled a greater distance and are generally more powerful.

3. Swell Direction

Swell direction shows where the waves are coming from. Each surf spot responds differently to the swell direction. Check how the swell direction matches your favorite spot:

  • West/Northwest swells: Common on Atlantic coasts.
  • South/Southwest swells: More frequent in summer.

What to know: A swell that arrives perpendicular to the shore is generally ideal for producing well-formed waves.

4. Wind Direction and Strength

Wind has a major impact on wave quality:

  • Offshore wind: Blows from the shore towards the sea, cleaning up the waves and making them more hollow. Ideal for surfing.
  • Onshore wind: Blows from the sea towards the shore, making the waves more choppy.
  • Cross-shore wind: Blows sideways relative to the coast, creating irregular waves.

What to know: Wind strength is measured in knots or kilometers per hour. A light wind (0-10 knots) is generally better for surfing.

5. Tide

Tides influence how waves break on the shore. Some spots work better at high tide, while others are better at low tide:

  • High tide: Can submerge certain spots, making the waves gentler.
  • Low tide: Waves can break closer to the shore, with faster and hollower sections.

What to know: Reading tide forecasts is crucial for choosing the right time to surf.

6. Local Surf Reports

Local surf reports, often available online or via apps, provide specific and up-to-date information on surf conditions. These reports include real-time observations on wave height, wind direction, and overall conditions.

What to know: Local reports are often accompanied by live cams, allowing you to see conditions in real-time.

Conclusion

Knowing how to read surf forecasts allows you to plan your surf sessions based on the best conditions. By combining information on wave height, swell period and direction, as well as wind and tide, you can choose the ideal time to hit the water and make the most of your surf session.